2002 TBird "door ajar" issue

[Frank Dreano]

Love driving my 18,000 mile, one-owner premium T-Bird and have 2,000 trouble free miles so far...
In the last 50 miles or so I get a ding alert and the dash flashes the door ajar warning on hard right turns on rare occasions then clears...driver's door apparently.

I think its a sensor as the driver's door shuts solidly and completely.
If anybody has insights on how to access/check the sensor I'd be thankful...

[TBird1stLuv]

Sorry, I haven't had an issue yet and was wondering if there was some kind of an alignment sensor for the door. I know sometimes my door doesn't seem to be aligned just right because I have noticed several dings on the inside panel when the door misses the latch on occassion. The door still seems to latch properly with no codes. Try messaging member HKS, he seems to be very knowledgeable and may have some advice.

[Frank Dreano]

Sorry, I haven't had an issue yet and was wondering if there was some kind of an alignment sensor for the door. I know sometimes my door doesn't seem to be aligned just right because I have noticed several dings on the inside panel when the door misses the latch on occassion. The door still seems to latch properly with no codes. Try messaging member HKS, he seems to be very knowledgeable and may have some advice.

OK.....I'll do that after I drive the car some more....

I know, I know -- these things don't "heal themselves" but I just want to make sure its not a fluke before digging into a door panel or electronics.
Thanks...

[Sealy]

Way back in the early 2000's, some genius at Ford decided to replace the push-pin light switch mounted on the door frame with a new switch integrated into the door latch. I guess they figured that they could save a fraction of a cent by replacing something that worked great for 60 or so years with something that would work for as long as it was under warranty. Then, it would not be their problem. Anyway, the switch has a tendency to accumulate dirt and debris which afflicts it. Try working WD40 or a spray contact cleaner/lubricant contact cleaner into the latch on the door. Worst case, you may have to remove the door card and work it from behind. I've never had to replace one, but it drove me crazy on my Escape.

[steelblue5505]

I hope you all do realize that the door ajar indicator on the dash shows the same, driver's door open, even if it is the passenger door or the trunk is not depressing the switch when it is closed or the hood is not depressing its switch when the hood is closed.

Your problem could very well be in the driver's door but I suspect not. Take a moment & check the trunk switch located in the trim piece. It is in the hole in the the trim by the latch. It is the same switch or button that turns off the trunk light. The hood sensor or switch is mounted on a flimsy metal bracket along the driver's side fender about even with the wheel. It too can easily be bent causing the hood to never touch it. Two very quick checks before taking the door panel off.

[Frank Dreano]

I hope you all do realize that the door ajar indicator on the dash shows the same, driver's door open, even if it is the passenger door or the trunk is not depressing the switch when it is closed or the hood is not depressing its switch when the hood is closed.

Your problem could very well be in the driver's door but I suspect not. Take a moment & check the trunk switch located in the trim piece. It is in the hole in the the trim by the latch. It is the same switch or button that turns off the trunk light. The hood sensor or switch is mounted on a flimsy metal bracket along the driver's side fender about even with the wheel. It too can easily be bent causing the hood to never touch it. Two very quick checks before taking the door panel off.

Hadn't thought about the trunk - I'll check those other openings to isolate the problem....in any event it sounds like its manner...
My only fear with this car is that some fault will turn up in one of the three computer modules and I understand those are murder to get fixed...
Doesn't sound like that's the issue here...
Thanks all.

[Tbear]

If it's not the trunk, try using a spray lubricant on the door mechanism before taking anything apart. Just open each door and spray, then open and then close the door a few times. I use WD40 because it is also a solvent. I've had the problem with several Fords and this method has always worked for me.

[Frank Dreano]

The trunk switch was a good call....the rubber boot covered switch that controls the trunk light and dash warning light for "door ajar" rides in a rather flimsy sheet metal bracket secured by one bolt to the actual trunk latch. The bracket for the switch plunger had, over the years, bent down, moving the plunger forward nearly under the long plastic cover that spans the rear of the trunk; to the point it wasn't being depressed fully with the trunk closed and road vibration would "alert" on door ajar intermittently.

I removed the plastic trunk cover, disconnected the switch and sprayed it with a good dose of DeOxIt (the only contact cleaner I use) and bent the bracket back into a centered position in the hole in the plastic cover.

Problem solved.

I also hit the door latches with the spray as well just for good measure - thanks all...

[007Cruiser]

Gotta love a happy ending.

[BillyL]

Gotta love this forum and all the helpful members that willing share advise and experiences. Our Birds can be challenging with all the unique problems that are possible. But thanks to the experiences of all the older members I seldom see a technical question asked that does not get a helpful response. Keep the information flowing guys and gals and thanks to all that contribute!

[TBird1stLuv]

BillyL Amen to that!

[007Cruiser]

I learned something new this morning. The power door locks will not allow you to lock the car if you leave the key in the ignition. Nice feature!

[Frank Dreano]

OK - I have more than one problem - the trunk switch was one - its solved...
However I still get the occasional dinging and the door ajar light on the dash...
I spent 2-1/2 hours stripping the door panels off (Ugh! - I'd rather work on my 63 Corvette I think)..

Anyway - would the problem be in the door actuator module(s) ?

I don't see any other electrical component in the door shells that would possibly cause this.


I have both doors apart and would just as soon go ahead and replace those if I'm certain those are the issue...

[steelblue5505]

Frank, did you check the hood closed sensor/switch like I had also suggested in my post. It is mounted on the same type of flimsy metal bracket like the trunk. It is along side the driver's fender & hood opening. If it isn't sensing the hood closed you will get the same indication on the dash.

[Frank Dreano]

Frank, did you check the hood closed sensor/switch like I had also suggested in my post. It is mounted on the same type of flimsy metal bracket like the trunk. It is along side the driver's fender & hood opening. If it isn't sensing the hood closed you will get the same indication on the dash.

Yessir. That checked out fine....checked with a multimeter and several rounds of opening/closing - that's not the problem.

I've sourced new door actuators and new latch switches and I'll just replace everything while I'm in there...