Need input for my '02 T bird

[Thunderbird 22]

Hello friends, i have been seriously thinking of removing the whole hydrolic cooling pump system, and replacing it with electric fan and fan speed controller. I recently rebuilt the pump, now the actuator is bad, and i have air in the system, that seems not wanting to purge, so a constant squeel when warmer temperature. The car with current trim is 1 of only 94. ,, ideally would be to keep it stock, but this hydrolic system really sucks. What should i do ?

[carntz]

There is thread here on TBN, The conversion is very complicated,due in fact that the charging system is underated for the addition of the electric fan. I also remember that you would have to manually control the fan when using the AC. My final thought was that was that it would cost more to convert than rebuild the whole system.

[Gobird]

All I can say is that my cooling system pump was replaced in the third year of ownership in 2004 and I now have 125,000 miles without a problem. If a problem came up I would replace it with the same system.

[Jimr]

I'm wondering if this change wouldn't require some computer reprogramming?

[adki110]

Here is the link.

http://www.thunderbirdnest.com/forum...2+electric+fan

[merlot4]

In addition to the very good information given above, if you go to Forums, Thunderbird Garage, How to fix it, and type the following into the search box: "hydraulic to electric", there are a few older items relating to this. I don't recall hearing about anyone, other than the link Richard gave, doing this.

[Thunderbird 22]

Thank you all for the replies, as far as the parts for the conversion, i already did my homework. Using a flex a lite fan , pulls about 17 amps, which should be fine for the stock 110 amp alternator. The fan is rated for a 4,6 and 5,8 liter V8, roughly about 2800 cfm. The speed controller Is also by flex a lite, it iS a " PID" system, which means it starts the fan at 60% speed, 4seconds after motor starts, the sensor which is in the radiator , sends a signal to the unit, and fan slowly speeds up when getting warmer. There is also a wire to connect to the a/c compressor clutch, forcing the fan into hi speed when energized. This controller is also adjustable from 185 to 230 degrees in the radiator. Being a "PID" controller, there will be no amperage spikes to the alternator,,, which should help.

i will keep all original parts to switch back if i ever sell the car, if originality is an issue...

[Fuchsaudio]

Thank you all for the replies, as far as the parts for the conversion, i already did my homework. Using a flex a lite fan , pulls about 17 amps, which should be fine for the stock 110 amp alternator. The fan is rated for a 4,6 and 5,8 liter V8, roughly about 2800 cfm. The speed controller Is also by flex a lite, it iS a " PID" system, which means it starts the fan at 60% speed, 4seconds after motor starts, the sensor which is in the radiator , sends a signal to the unit, and fan slowly speeds up when getting warmer. There is also a wire to connect to the a/c compressor clutch, forcing the fan into hi speed when energized. This controller is also adjustable from 185 to 230 degrees in the radiator. Being a "PID" controller, there will be no amperage spikes to the alternator,,, which should help.

i will keep all original parts to switch back if i ever sell the car, if originality is an issue...

This is cool. My bird went in today for an overheat. I think it's just a hose, but the "hydrolic fan thing" makes me nervous. I bought some cosmetic parts from a wrecker who has a 2003 on hand. I may call back and see if I can buy that fan driver too, just in case. I wish Ford/Jaguar didn't reinvent the wheel on so many silly things....

[007Cruiser]

Andy, your 2003 doesn't have the hydraulic fan system. That was 2002 only.

[merlot4]

Thank you all for the replies, as far as the parts for the conversion, i already did my homework. Using a flex a lite fan , pulls about 17 amps, which should be fine for the stock 110 amp alternator. The fan is rated for a 4,6 and 5,8 liter V8, roughly about 2800 cfm. The speed controller Is also by flex a lite, it iS a " PID" system, which means it starts the fan at 60% speed, 4seconds after motor starts, the sensor which is in the radiator , sends a signal to the unit, and fan slowly speeds up when getting warmer. There is also a wire to connect to the a/c compressor clutch, forcing the fan into hi speed when energized. This controller is also adjustable from 185 to 230 degrees in the radiator. Being a "PID" controller, there will be no amperage spikes to the alternator,,, which should help.

i will keep all original parts to switch back if i ever sell the car, if originality is an issue...

Best of luck with your project, it sounds like you have everything well thought out! Please share what and how you changed it so that it can be added to the data base.

[Brad]

You will also need a shorter fan belt for the conversion once you remove the pump. The car my kids are trying to put back together has a really bad leak at the pump, the high pressure line is bent so they are going to try replacing that first. FYI, I have a brand new NOS hydraulic pump and actuator for sale in the classified section, I also have a used pump and actuator.

Is the squeal coming from the pump or the fan?

[Thunderbird 22]

Brad, as for the belt, i forgot to mention, but already purchased a 100" belt. The noise i hear comes from the hydrolics, sound like a bad power steering pump,and only whines when engine run hotter ( 87 deg. Day or hotter) or i turn on the a/c on, and the condensor blows hot air. But cold,, no noise. A hydrolIc specialist told me its trapped air in the system.
I am a Commercial / industrial Refrigeration mechanic, so tinkering and coming up with fixes is up my alley. I am almost positive that doing the swap to electric will give better cooling ( i monitor with a Livewire TS unit, on OBD connection) . I like to maintain between 190 and 198 , on the hottest days.

as for my actuator valve on the pump, i know its bad from testing. Fan speed should be controlled from amount of fluid this valve is putting out.( using a pulse signal from car's computer) When a/c compressor is engaged, it should open up and flow 100% to the motor. Mine doesn't do that. A actuator at the dealer here in Canada is $400 + 15% taxes.....

[Thunderbird 22]

Best of luck with your project, it sounds like you have everything well thought out! Please share what and how you changed it so that it can be added to the data base.

Merlot, I will definitvely keep all of you posted of the outcome, and how it works. Nice winter project while she sleeps in my garage over the winter.

[Thunderbird 22]

Hello again friends,
Since i took 2 weeks off from work, my T Bird is sleeping in the garage, what better time to tear it apart, to do the electric fan swap. The hardest part was removing the hydrolic pump, car is sitting on 2ft high , 4X , 6 ton axel stands. After a knuckle busting time removing the alternator, i was able to remove 3 of the 4 bolts off the pump. 4 th bolt took me 4 hrs, then got fed up and cut the sucker. End results, the hydrolic pump, hoses, reservoir, fan motor.... all gone. I retained the fan shroud because the A/C dryer, heater valve are all hooked up to it with special brackets. My new flex a lite fan is installed on the shoud. Where the old oil reservoir was, i fabed a aluminum bracket for the Flex a lite control module. Wired from the fusebox to the controller, and from controller to fan motor. Hooked up the thermo sensor, and the bypass wire from the A/C clutch wire. Also ran a wire to a switched 12V input. last step is to get new gold coolant from the dealer, and fill up, install the the rest of air intake tube, maf sensor, and the rest of the plastic covers...

once started, i'll let you' all know how it worked out, if someone needs info on doing this swap !

Cheers, and happy new year !

[EllisonCal]

Xavier, you are courageous. That is one daunting task and I hope it works out well. The later models all had Ford electric cooling fans but when they go bad, the only part Ford offers is the entire Fan Assembly at around $1665. not including the labor to remove and reinstall the old with the new. It includes the ECU and I think that is what drives the price so high.