Well, I found out my instrument cluster had been "hot wired" to make the lights burn full bright anytime the key was on - apparently to get around the typical FEM failure where the dash lights (and shifter light) go dark.
So I had to open up my instrument cluster to "unfornicate" the Bubba fix and remove a jumper and repair two cut wires and while I was in there- all 7 white gauge lamps and the 18 warning/status lights. Since the dash wiring was back to stock the lights wouldn't light as the FEM PWM output signal failed...
I wired a reversing relay off the middle DS tail light socket wire behind the trunk panel to send 12V to the front of the car when the wire's voltage goes low (e.g. lights on)...that wire acts as a trigger to an I put in the lower right side push-pin hole in the steering column cover (very unobtrusive). This arrangement makes sure the cluster lights only operate when the parking lights or headlights are on...
The dimmer switch has one wire that goes to ground and the dimmer PWM signal is wired behind the center stack to the high side of the shifter console indicator light (now also an LED); this is a BLACK wire in a 2002 and the ground is a WHITE wire (go figure). That shifter light wire "back feeds" the instrument cluster gauges on the same line that the FEM would normally use.
If I ever get the FEM fixed (prob not) all I have to do is unplug the trigger wire at the added dimmer switch and everything is back to stock function (except the LEDs). These are 60,000 hour LEDS so I doubt I'll ever pull the cluster again.
This video is the result and I dim and raise the light brightness towards the end. And I don't have to worry about that PITA FEM -- ever. My smartphone camera made the warning lights appear glaring for some reason; they really aren't bad, just brighter.
https://youtu.be/3Q0vmGemELA
Modified_Cluster_2.jpgLED_bulbs.PNGLED_Dimmer.PNG
So I had to open up my instrument cluster to "unfornicate" the Bubba fix and remove a jumper and repair two cut wires and while I was in there- all 7 white gauge lamps and the 18 warning/status lights. Since the dash wiring was back to stock the lights wouldn't light as the FEM PWM output signal failed...
I wired a reversing relay off the middle DS tail light socket wire behind the trunk panel to send 12V to the front of the car when the wire's voltage goes low (e.g. lights on)...that wire acts as a trigger to an I put in the lower right side push-pin hole in the steering column cover (very unobtrusive). This arrangement makes sure the cluster lights only operate when the parking lights or headlights are on...
The dimmer switch has one wire that goes to ground and the dimmer PWM signal is wired behind the center stack to the high side of the shifter console indicator light (now also an LED); this is a BLACK wire in a 2002 and the ground is a WHITE wire (go figure). That shifter light wire "back feeds" the instrument cluster gauges on the same line that the FEM would normally use.
If I ever get the FEM fixed (prob not) all I have to do is unplug the trigger wire at the added dimmer switch and everything is back to stock function (except the LEDs). These are 60,000 hour LEDS so I doubt I'll ever pull the cluster again.
This video is the result and I dim and raise the light brightness towards the end. And I don't have to worry about that PITA FEM -- ever. My smartphone camera made the warning lights appear glaring for some reason; they really aren't bad, just brighter.
https://youtu.be/3Q0vmGemELA
Modified_Cluster_2.jpgLED_bulbs.PNGLED_Dimmer.PNG
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